Today, I wanted to take a break, go out shopping, and just step outside. But my friend’s dad called to send me a TV to help fix it, so I had to cancel my plans. He brought over a Sony LCD TV model KBL-32BX320 that had been used for about seven years. I made a cup of tea, offered him a drink, and discussed the TV's issue. The problem was that after turning it on, it would only work for a short time—sometimes up to half an hour—and then shut down automatically. The power light would stay on, but the remote wouldn't work. The only way to restart it was to unplug the power cord, but even then, it would only last a few minutes before shutting off again. There wasn’t a clear pattern to when it turned off. Based on these symptoms, I suspected that there might be thermal instability in some components or poor soldering in the circuit. I decided to start by checking the power supply. After testing, the standby voltage of 3.3V was normal, but the other two voltages—12V and 24V—were both at zero. The TV was in standby mode, and the remote control could switch the power on and off, causing the voltage at the power-on terminal to fluctuate between 3.0V and 0V. This suggested that the motherboard was functioning normally, and the fault likely lay in the power board. I checked the power board and found that the main filter capacitor (C6330) had a voltage of around 320V, which indicated that the PFC circuit wasn't working properly. When I pressed the remote button, the voltage rose to 400V, and the screen lit up briefly. However, after a while, it dropped back to 320V, and the TV went into standby again. The voltage at the power-on terminal was 1.6V, which seemed low. I concluded that there might be a virtual solder joint or an issue with the protection circuit on the power board. I removed the power board for further testing. I connected a dummy load to the 12V and 24V outputs and measured the voltages. While 3.3V was stable, the 12V and 24V outputs were both zero. The PFC circuit wasn’t working, and the voltage at the power-on terminal remained at 1.6V. I couldn’t find any obvious damage or burnt components, so I started checking the connections more carefully. After a moment of reflection, I revisited the data I had collected. I noticed that the voltage at the control terminal (P3) was lower than expected—only 1.6V instead of the normal 3.0V. I tried connecting a 4.7K resistor from the 3.3V standby output to the P3 terminal, and the voltage changed accordingly, indicating that the path was intact. However, the issue still persisted. I traced the control path and found that it involved several transistors (Q6203, Q6204), a FET (Q6201), and an optocoupler (PH6104), which controlled the IC6301-CXA3810. Without a schematic, I had to check each component manually. I eventually discovered that the Zener diodes D6024 and D6025, which were part of the 12V and 24V protection circuits, showed abnormal reverse leakage. I replaced them with 30V/2W regulators, and after retesting, everything worked fine. After running the TV for three hours without issues, I realized that the problem was due to a faulty Zener diode in the protection circuit. If I had checked that earlier, I could have saved myself some time and effort. It's always important to double-check all possible causes, even if they seem minor at first glance.
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